In champagne bar Lusso, James Gabrillo finds delicately portioned dishes that range from the deceptively common to the delightfully complex

The first thing that catches your eye is the velvet-upholstered seating in champagne gold, a massive Murano glass chandelier, and waiters in high-collared white jackets. With such a consummate chef behind the establishment, there’s no need to be surprised. Margarita Forés adds dose of verve to the champagne bar scene with her new baby, Lusso—which offers limited seating amid classic décor and some of the finest cuisine in delicate portions.

The food menu emphasizes flavorful specialties such as the Demi-Pound Burger—impeccably cooked U.S. prime beef that’s brown on the outside but pink and juicy inside, bathed in Cambozola cheese and cream, topped with onions sautéed in Prosecco sparkling wine, and highlighted with foie gras. Bite into the burger and the crispy bun crackles inside your mouth. It’s nothing but sloppy and delicious.

Taking its cue from the classics and shunning the saccharine confections that pass for cocktails elsewhere, Lusso serves bubbly by the glass

One of the most fascinating aspects of Forés’s cuisine is its apparent ability to reinvent itself at a speed that can leave one reeling—cuisine based on sensations and essences. Aside from the foie gras burger, Lusso serves such purr-inducing delights such as Lumpfish Caviar Foam, Truffle Potato Crisps, Luxe Mac & Cheese (made of pancetta and formaggio trio), Grilled Entrecote Bearnaise (U.S. prime striploin with French butter rice), and Extra-Virgin Olive Oil & Sea Salt Gelato.

What many people don’t know is that Lusso is more than just about flavorful cuisine and caviar served on ice. Taking its cue from the classics and shunning the saccharine confections that pass for cocktails elsewhere, Lusso serves bubbly by the glass (and with optional fruit essence), as well as vodka, scotch, brandy, and eau de vie.

A lot of the places in its vicinity basically offer fruit-punch with a kick—but Lusso serves up a true gourmet cocktail experience. With it, Forés has cut her gaze upon the luxury sphere and has come up with a sleek joint that’s sure to pop and fizz. 

Lusso is located at G/F, Greenbelt 5, Ayala Center, Makati. Call 756-LUXE.