Fantasy Island
With seemingly endless lush greens, the glistening blue waters of the Sibuyan Sea, and Spartan-like white villas dotting the landscape, Bellarocca is a captivating sight for weary city eyes. Katrina Tuason-Cruz buckles down and soaks in the island resort’s breathtaking beauty
I had waited weeks for this trip. I was feeling burnt out from the stresses of work, and I was looking forward to taking a trip with my husband and three of my best friends. I had heard about this new island resort because, though not officially open yet, a few of my friends had managed to find their way down there and told me how beautiful it was. Located in Marinduque, it was an island I had yet to discover.
At present, the only airline that flies to Marinduque is Zest Air, and the five of us met at the airport for our 7 A.M. flight. Quite excited, we didn’t know what to expect from this trip, which is always a good thing—especially when it surpasses your expectations by leaps and bounds. It was an easy 30-minute flight, the weather was great, and it seemed like we literally took off and landed. When we arrived at the airport in Marinduque, the staff of Bellarocca were there to meet us, and we were whisked away in a comfortable van for a 40-minute drive. We drove along the coastal road with the Sibuyan Sea laid out before us, passing some of the cleanest towns I have ever seen. There were no stray dogs or cats, but surprisingly, little black pot-bellied pigs were running wild. I was so full of questions about Marinduque and the resort that, before I knew it, we had arrived at the makeshift port.
The water was so calm, it was almost strange, and there was hardly a wave as we sliced through the ocean in the comfy speed boat, singing along to Bob Marley and sipping beers.
We walked along a rickety, wooden gangplank to where a slick 30-foot boat was docked. So far, so good. We could make out the island in the distance, but none of us were ready for what would be waiting on the other side of the short boat ride to Elefante Island. From a distance, you could see the outline of smooth, white structures—the Greek-inspired architecture that was designed by Alex Yatco—which we were told was chosen because, aside from its being so picturesque, could withstand severe weather conditions, especially during the stormy months. As the boat inched closer, I felt like I could have been on the other side of the world, on an island somewhere in Greece.
Coming off the boat, we were taken to the marina where the staff greeted us with flower leis and virgin cocktails, complete with the requisite paper umbrellas. We were blown away by the view of Mt. Malindig and the ocean on all sides. And, almost instantly, we found ourselves transforming into a bunch of tourists, taking cheesy holiday photos of one another.
A golf cart eventually brought us up the steep cobblestone road to the front desk of the hotel where there was an indoor pond filled with Koi fish. The quirky general manager, Ramon Martinez, was there to greet and host us at a warm buffet breakfast at the hotel restaurant. Afterwards, we were ready to hit our villas. I had heard so much about them, and couldn’t wait to check them out. As the door of our villa opened, our infinity pool and jacuzzi spread out before us, the ocean acting as its backdrop. Breathtaking.
This was the life! Miguel had mentioned that, upon entering his villa, he felt like he had won the lottery. I understood, because I felt exactly the same way. The island has 10 distinctively original villas, both one- and two-bedroom, cliffside and garden villas. They come with a pretty hefty price tag but, boy, are they well worth it. You feel like you own the island, and I could sense Manila slipping away. Finally.
I would definitely recommend this resort for honeymooners—the privacy is insane, and you can go for days without seeing anyone. Each villa is fully equipped with plasma tvs in all the rooms, sound systems, Internet, a fully functioning kitchen. Not to mention the outdoor lounge by the pool. Aaaahhhh, heaven. I was planning to run my office via remote from here for the next few days, and I began to wonder how I could even concentrate with this comfort and view! I instantly knew that my three-day trip was going to have to be extended; it was going to be hard to leave an island this relaxing. It felt like I was hooked up to a morphine drip.
I woke up every morning, excited about being there, while I looked out at the view from my bedroom and sipped coffee from our terrace. I don’t think I ever swam as much in my life—with the infinity pool at our feet, more often than not, we spent whole hours in the water. Bellarocca, which has its own dam in Mt. Malindig, pumps spring water onto the island for the pools and showers. It’s a nice touch that makes all the difference—you don’t get that salt water taste or smell that is often present in even the best resorts in places like Boracay.
One day, while staring out into the ocean, I caught a glimpse of a dolphin in the water, not once . . . but three times! The sunsets were even more gorgeous than the mornings, and the colors of the sky ranged from blue, orange, and gold to pink.
After my third day, I didn’t think life even existed off this island—nor did I care. I just couldn’t face civilization after this.
After a full day of vegging out, it was time to get moving. My cousin Marta was training for the NY marathon, so we decided to get some activity in; she whooped my ass, running circles around me. First stop: the picnic grove with our very own tour guide. The picnic grove is behind the hotel, and you can head up to the highest point on the island. Rather than hiking up a muddy hillside amidst the dense greenery, we took a brick path (which made it much easier). As you end the trail, you find yourself right beside the biggest villa on the island: the Bellarocca Presidential Villa. At five thousand dollars a night, it has three spacious bedrooms and its very own movie theater, pool, and roof deck with incredible views of the surrounding areas—Tres Reyes islands and beautiful Mt. Malindig—in the distance.
I met up with Shiela Evano and Richard Torres, both from the Marketing Team of Bellarocca, and they took me on a tour of the island in a golf cart. There are one-, two-, and three-bedroom casitas, which are located around the perimeter of a nicely manicured garden. There are no ocean views from here, but they are definitely as comfortable as the villa accommodations. We then went to the meditation area, and I quickly asked if they were going to hold yoga classes. I couldn’t think of a better spot to practice Asanas. The spa was a short climb, and it opened up to two private spa rooms with a deck and jacuzzi in the center. For private functions, there was another villa with a wraparound balcony overlooking the ocean. We cruised past the helipad where a few guests had arrived, then down past the duplex accommodations that looked like they were hanging off the cliff. For more budget-conscious people who want to come to the island, Bellarocca also has standard hotel rooms. Every inch of this resort screams luxury, so no need to worry where you are located.
Our afternoons were spent enjoying more activities that the resort had to offer; we sailed into the sunset, seeking the white sand beach a few coves south of the island called Poctoy beach. The water was so calm, it was almost strange, and there was hardly a wave as we sliced through the ocean in the comfy speed boat, singing along to Bob Marley and sipping beers. Our captain and guide were so knowledgeable about the area, I thought they were locals from Marinduque—but, surprisingly enough, they ended up being from Manila. Another afternoon was spent snorkeling at the Tres Reyes islands. The water was incredible, clear and turquoise, with fantastic visibility, and my husband saw a moray eel while snorkeling. Unfortunately, most of the coral around the Marinduque area are dead, thanks to dynamite and cyanide fishing.
Back at Bellarocca, we were able to get in more snorkeling right off the pebble beach. I saw a school of about a thousand or more tawilis or sardines that moved like a pack, looking like a giant black cloud in the water. On another day, we had the honor of being the first guests to take the kayaks out. Naturally, we capsized at some point, and I drank a few liters of water because I was laughing so hard. This place was great even when it was storming outside, and the front desk provided a slew of movies, CDs, and activities for children—precisely for those rare occasions spent indoors.
It began to feel like a couple of days since we had last seen our other friends (who had not come out of their villa), so we hunted them down in their very own garden of Eden, which their villa was appropriately named after. Slightly different from ours, theirs was very cozy, much like someone’s home. It had a nice living room and an open kitchen and, of course, the usual infinity pool and jacuzzi set-up.
Most nights, we’d all get together and have our meals up at the hotel restaurant. Room service wasn’t promoted too much, since the GM worried that the quality of the food would suffer on its way to the villas. As a bonus, we were told that a butler service would be available in the future. This meant that your food could eventually be cooked right in your own kitchen so that you would never have to leave the comfort of your home away from home. It seemed like another testament to the resort’s commitment to providing guests with every comfort imaginable, and I realized it was almost impossible not to feel spoiled.
After my third day, I didn’t think life existed even off this island—nor did I care. I just couldn’t face civilization after this. As we approached the end of our stay, we were treated to a romantic candlelit dinner right by the water, where we were served a selection of grilled seafood and vegetables. It was the perfect way to spend our last night.
The next morning, we had to be up and about by 5:30 A.M., just enough time to take the last dip in our pool before getting ready to head to the city. I closed the door of my villa with a heavy heart and said goodbye, thankful for having had this time with my husband. I hoped that this trip had taught me how to slow down, to savor things and moments just a bit longer. As we got on the boat and the staff threw flowers into the air, I started laughing because I had caught myself tearing up.
Back in Manila, I was missing Bellarocca, so I decided to ask my husband if I could build a lap pool in our home. Nice try, but no luck. I guess I’ll just have to settle for my memories—and start planning how to make my way back there one day.
Sincere thanks to John Tanjangco, Shiela Evano, Richard Torres, Ramon Martinez, and bellarocca island resort & spa managed by genesis hotels and resorts corp.
